INTRODUCTION




INTRODUCTION


As with my other blog - "Grandpa's Voyages" - the idea for this one arose from a desire to make available to my Grandchildren photos and descriptions of some post-retirement adventures.

When I took up long distance cruising in my own yacht I had little idea and no plan for the length of time I expected to continue with that lifestyle.

But, after 13 years, when I reached New Zealand for the second time in 2009 - after one and a half circumnavigations - and at the age of 73, I realised I needed to start making plans to change.

So, I put the yacht up for sale at a price reflecting fair value but one that was high for the local market.

I thought I could change my life straight away at that price, but if no sale developed I could refurbish Alchemi for ocean cruising and continue on my way for a few more years.

As an alternative way of life I conceived the idea of reverting to a hobby of my youth - cycle touring - and so specified and bought a suitable bicycle - described in the October 2016 post of this blog as - "My Steed".

Alchemi did not sell in New Zealand so I did have her refitted and spent another five years visiting the Islands of the South West Pacific and continuing my second circumnavigation as far as South Africa - all as recorded in "Grandpa's Voyages".

So, the yacht was not finally sold until 2015 which was the year I finally began my fourth age with cycle-camping trips to Suffolk and the Loire Valley. But by then I was 79 years old so my camping was only practicable by carrying tent, bike, and equipment by car to sites from which I could make modest rides on the bike - rather than the continuous touring I first had in mind in 2009.

By August I also decided camping with a tent was unnecessarily spartan and so bought a caravan instead and went off with that to Spain and Portugal between October and November.

I have continued this new life in 2016 and hope to be able to do so for many years to come.

The layout and style of this blog will adopt the "Grandpa's Voyages" format with posts containing narratives and photos of my various expeditions.






Thursday 12 April 2018

Upper Normandy - Val d'Eure - April 2018

VALLÉ DE L'EURE

NEAR DREUX



BACKGROUND TO THIS VISIT

It is nearly a year ago since I last posted on this site so I need to explain I've not been entirely inactive during that time.

After returning to UK last year from Brittany via Plymouth to visit my friends who live nearby in a beautiful cottage on the Quayside at Noss Mayo I returned the caravan to its storage site near Winchester.

But, I wasn't entirely satisfied I'd made the right choice of van because it did tend to sway rather a lot in high winds and when being overtaken on motorways by fast moving vehicles. So I decided to part-exchange it for another with a very similar internal layout but shorter.

After taking delivery in June I took the new van to Cornwall to spend time again with my son and his family during their annual camping holiday and in the October to December period went again to Southern Portugal whence I returned in late December for Christmas before flying off to Australia on another visit to my daughter and granddaughters in Melbourne.

After returning to UK I then hosted a short visit by my Swedish friend Peter with whom I had sailed along the Venezuelan offshore islands in 2001 (see Grandpa's Voyages) and this mainly featured visits to the Historic Dockyards at Chatham and Portsmouth.

There was nothing about these expeditions in the second half of 2017 and early 2018 that I hadn't written about before so it wasn't until March 2018 that I had time to think about my next activities when I decided to go again to France for the Spring and Early Summer.

This time I resolved to head for new territory and so crossed the channel from Portsmouth to Caen and went to a site pre-booked for the Easter holiday at Marcilly sur Eure between the larger towns of Évreux and Dreux.


MARCILLY SUR EURE

Marcilly is indeed small being one of many historic villages located at frequent intervals (every 3-5 kilometres) along the Eure valley bottom.

The Eure is a tributary of the Seine that rises in Lower Normandy before flowing East and then north for a total of some 230 km. Marcilly is situated about half way along this north-south section.

In this area the river is quite narrow and shallow but fast-flowing and has cut a fairly wide valley (perhaps 2 km), with a flat bottom and sides gently sloping upwards to flat land about 75 m higher than the river itself.


Despite population growth the villages retain their separate identity and the countryside is gently agricultural when away from the larger modern towns such as Dreux and Pacy Sur Eure.

My time here was largely pre-occupied with van problems. Once, last year, and again here, the car and van parted company with one another at slow speed as I tried to move away from the pitch I'd been allocated to go to another site.

On both occasions I felt sure I had carefully checked the coupling between the two but of course the van supplier, maker and chassis builder all denied liability and said I hadn't been sufficiently careful to take all the necessary precautions. The new van was easier to tow but had less galley and locker space than the first and I'd not had this sort of problem with my first purchase (though there had been others) but my priority here was to make repairs and check the safety of continuing to tow.

At time of writing I hope I am nearly at the end of this process and able to move on but am not yet completely sure that is the case.

Despite my concerns at possible crowding on the few sites open at Easter time I was practically the only transient visitor. I consequently developed a friendly relationship with the lady receptionist and site maintenance engineer who helped me investigate and deal with the van problems.

The weather over Easter was quite cold and mainly wet so that didn't provide many opportunities for either van repairs or cycling expeditions. But, 10 days later warmer and dryer weather arrived and I was able to make a first expedition.

There are relatively quiet roads along the bottom of the valley on each side of the river (quieter on the more hilly eastern side) and a disused railway line running between the two has been converted into a well-surfaced walking and cycling path for much of its length. 

Anyway, one sunny day I took time off from van repairs and went for a ride starting at Croth then running back along to Marcilly partly on the rough track beside a lake and partly along the old railway route.


Disused Railway Station and River Eure at Croth



Water from the river has been diverted in a few places to create small lakes (Étangs) that have been stocked with fish to attract anglers who can access them by rough tracks near the path along which it is also possible to cycle even though that can be a rather bone-jarring experience.


The combination of rain followed by higher temperatures had resulted in an abundance of flowers starting to shine through with hawthorn in particular showing masses of blossom. That was particularly significant for me because my wife used to love that so very much, and the birds it attracted.


HAWTHORN ABLAZE


I crossed the river east of Marcilly and followed the D116 up the hill to Sorel where I stopped for a couple of beers in the sun in a practically deserted village square before going on to Ézy sur Eure where I could cross back over the river, buy a baguette and a couple of Pains au Chocolat in a local Boulangerie and thence find my way back along the Voie Verte to Croth – a most enjoyable round trip of about 15 km.

Here are a couple more photos of sights along the way.


A CLASSIC RURAL SCENE


WE CALL THEM PRIMROSES

THE FRENCH CALL THEM PRIMVERTS

THE EU WOULD PROBABLY STANDARDISE THEM AS PRIMYELLOWS OR PRIMJAUNES

BUT THEY ARE BEAUTIFUL WHATEVER THEY ARE CALLED