INTRODUCTION




INTRODUCTION


As with my other blog - "Grandpa's Voyages" - the idea for this one arose from a desire to make available to my Grandchildren photos and descriptions of some post-retirement adventures.

When I took up long distance cruising in my own yacht I had little idea and no plan for the length of time I expected to continue with that lifestyle.

But, after 13 years, when I reached New Zealand for the second time in 2009 - after one and a half circumnavigations - and at the age of 73, I realised I needed to start making plans to change.

So, I put the yacht up for sale at a price reflecting fair value but one that was high for the local market.

I thought I could change my life straight away at that price, but if no sale developed I could refurbish Alchemi for ocean cruising and continue on my way for a few more years.

As an alternative way of life I conceived the idea of reverting to a hobby of my youth - cycle touring - and so specified and bought a suitable bicycle - described in the October 2016 post of this blog as - "My Steed".

Alchemi did not sell in New Zealand so I did have her refitted and spent another five years visiting the Islands of the South West Pacific and continuing my second circumnavigation as far as South Africa - all as recorded in "Grandpa's Voyages".

So, the yacht was not finally sold until 2015 which was the year I finally began my fourth age with cycle-camping trips to Suffolk and the Loire Valley. But by then I was 79 years old so my camping was only practicable by carrying tent, bike, and equipment by car to sites from which I could make modest rides on the bike - rather than the continuous touring I first had in mind in 2009.

By August I also decided camping with a tent was unnecessarily spartan and so bought a caravan instead and went off with that to Spain and Portugal between October and November.

I have continued this new life in 2016 and hope to be able to do so for many years to come.

The layout and style of this blog will adopt the "Grandpa's Voyages" format with posts containing narratives and photos of my various expeditions.






Monday, 25 June 2018

OUISTREHAM

June 2018



Ouistreham is a seaside resort and ferry port a few miles north of the big city of Caen.

It is very popular and convenient for a one night stop before or after the crossing the English Channel from Portsmouth and is sometimes used for a longer stay as it is also close to Bayeux where the famous Tapestry is displayed and to the beaches where the Allied forces landed during World War II.


Northern Normandy Coast

The site was easy to find but as I turned off the D515 onto the short approach road I noticed a large crowd of African Immigrants on a stretch of green land between the two.         In the following days too they were invariably there just sitting around, talking to one another, smoking and so on.        But it was also noticeable there was usually a Police car nearby and perhaps for this reason I never experienced or saw any signs of trouble.

Having already visited Bayeux and the WW II landing beaches in years gone by I didn't feel a compulsion to do so again and had a rather dull time for ten days before my ferry was due.        I would have preferred to stay longer at Tuffe in the absence of flooding but even so should perhaps have gone to another site in the interior rather than spending so much time at Ouistreham.

Mostly I prepared food in the caravan but on my last night I treated myself to dinner at La Glycine Restaurant in Benouville just a few miles down the road towards Caen.

This was expensive but very, very good.     All the dishes were perfectly cooked, had intensive flavours and were elegantly presented.    Here is the menu -

Mise-en-Bouche - small concoction of raw salmon and apple 

Entree - Foie Gras de Canard and Pomme Confites with toast 

Plat - Turbot with exquisite vegetables and prawn sauce

Dessert - Strawberry Capuccino - liquified and strained strawberries with Creme Fraiche and Mint



Wines - Touraine and Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc

So, I was feeling very satisfied and relaxed as I returned to the site and picked up the  van at 21:30 to catch the late night ferry.

That feeling didn't last long as explained in this email I sent to family after returning home :

A CALENDAR BLIND SPOT AND ITS CONSEQUENCES


When I reached the ferry terminal an hour before the boat sailed last night the girl at the check-in booth said - "You were booked to travel yesterday! "

'Never mind she said, 'We're not full so you'll be able to go anyway".    Then after looking up details on her computer she also said "But we don't have any cabins left so the best we can do is revise your booking to a reclining seat and later send you a refund for the difference".

I had no alternative but to accept, and immediately 'phoned Alan to explain and re-arrange our meeting place for transfer of the van's contents to a service station on the M4 thus fore-going the benefit of a good night's sleep at a site near Marlborough I'd already paid for and a less rushed transfer on Saturday morning.

So, I had a very uncomfortable night with little sleep but the next interesting thing to happen was when I went through UK Customs and Immigration at Portsmouth.      "Did you look inside your van before coming off the ferry"? asked the officer at Passport Control, to which I replied "No".       Whereupon he said, 'We'd better have a look then", which we did and found everything in order.         He then said "They smuggle themselves inside lorries to get aboard the ferry and then get out and break-in to caravans and the like when every-one has left the car decks - we've had one every day this week."       This exchange related to the illegal immigrants from Africa who base themselves in Ouistreham, some of whom I had seen every day at the entrance to the campsite. 

The transfer of contents to Alan's trailer took place as planned the previous evening and I delivered the van to the Caravan Dealer near Swindon for its first annual service.

I also managed to get home without dozing off at the wheel and having an accident and am now relaxing with a "nice cup of tea".        

Thus ended my summer land-cruise in France this year and I'm now enjoying the greater ease and comforts of living in a larger space for a short time before setting off to share another summer holiday with Alan and his family in Cornwall. 






Wednesday, 13 June 2018

PAYS DE LA LOIRE

TUFFÉ

JUNE 2018


I stayed at Le Po Doré site near Allonnes for a week but then moved on to Camping du Lac at the old town of Tuffé, a few miles north east of Le Mans and about half way between Saumur and Caen.

This small and quiet rural village grew up around an Abbey unusually founded and occupied by Nuns in the 7th Century. Benedictine Monks were admitted 400 years later and the House was demoted to become a Priory subordinate to the Abbey of St Vincent in Le Mans.

The old buildings were extensively replaced and extended in the 17th and 18th centuries and, as with so many religious and aristocratic buildings in France, gutted during the Revolution and turned to other purposes thereafter.        In this case they were used as a pottery workshop and garage for farm equipment.

Modern volunteers care for the remains, particularly the principal two-storey building and a separate cloister and gardens with a large Pigeonnier nearby. The pigeons for the Prior's table had the luxury of an extensive array of pottery lined nesting boxes on the interior walls of the tower-like Pigeonnier. Volunteers are currently engaged at a leisurely pace in archeological and restoration projects.

These historical remains are rather dwarfed by recent housing developments though it has to be said those nearest the Abbey have been done tastefully and are limited in height.

One of the sources of the villages current prosperity and interest is a “Base de Loisirs” (Recreation Centre) created around a large lake in the valley just north-west of the village.

The lake is roughly rectangular in shape with long sides of about 1 km and short ones of ¼ km each. It is surrounded by a mostly flat and gravel-surfaced track popular with anglers, walkers and cyclists.  I very much enjoyed using it frequently, sometimes for just one circuit and sometimes for two. These rides were shorter than others earlier on the trip but more regular.

There is also a sailing club with boards for windsurfers, small dinghies and catamarans very popular with locals at weekends, and at one end of the lake an artificial beach has been created with imported sand that's also popular for sunbathing, swimming or just relaxing.   

Near the campsite and sailing club there's a restaurant and bar with a "Menu Touristique" - not exactly a gourmet's first choice but a distinct cut above a typical English, or even French café/bar.       Pedaloes and canoes can also be rented here.

So, taken altogether this was a very relaxed and calming place to stay - at least for the first ten days. 

I chose a pitch at the lowest level of the site as it had a good view of the lake – seen through the window of the caravan in this picture.


View of lake and glimpse of its peripheral track

That was fine for most of the time but led to a dramatic curtailment of my stay at the end after a few days of thunderstorms and heavy rain.     

I was awoken one night at 02:00 by a loud thumping on the side of the van and a voice saying “Fireman”.    It wasn't a fire alarm though but instead a flood alarm announced by “Les Pompiers” who provide civil emergency services of all sorts.    

The lake is fed by a small river that flows down the valley and the heavy rains increased the inward flow to an extent that the outflow couldn't match so the water level was rising rapidly.   The Pompiers had issued notice to evacuate the site with occupants taking cars to a park at a higher level but leaving vans where they were.

Here is a copy of the email I sent to family describing what happened.

I used always to have a Grab Bag containing vital essentials on the boat but never thought I'd need one in a caravan!

The worst thing last night after being woken by Le Pompier was remembering the most important things to take, finding them, and thinking the bike, table and chairs that were all outside might float away or be badly damaged if I just left them where they were.

I'd put the bike in the car so often that was soon accomplished but in my haste I broke one of the table leg's locking struts - so I don't know if that will still stand up any more.

It was 03:00 by the time I'd retreated to the car park and I went for a short drive to try and discover how high the water had reached - but the easiest access point in the village had been taped-off, so perhaps low-altitude citizens had been evacuated as well.

But I did find an entrance to the path around which I had cycled several times and the water had risen nearly to that level- perhaps 18 - 24 inches below the level of the van's lowest feet and 24-30 inches below the lowest floorboards. 

But of course the slope was fairly gentle so I realised the volume needed to really trouble the van would be huge because of the large area of the lake.

Nevertheless it was on my mind when I returned to the car park at about 04:00 and again at 05:15 when I woke from an uncomfortable doze as daylight began to creep over the landscape.

So, I was back at the campsite entrance at 06:00 to find the access key I'd been given didn't work and the reception office was in darkness. I thought I'd have to wait for some-one to show up. But, luckily a staff member who had been dozing in the office was alerted by the car's headlights and came out to investigate.

He said - "You can't stay in your van". "That's OK" I replied, thinking it could easily be a couple of days before enough water drained away for residence to be resumed, or even longer if there was more rain. "I just want to collect my van and leave the site. I can do that in 30 minutes maximum". "OK", he said.

So that's what I did and was on the road by 06:30, though tidying up and packing away the pots and pans, unwashed dinner dishes, etc, wasn't up to my usual standards. He also advised using Routes National only since he'd heard many of the Départemental roads and villages along them were impassable.

My objective was to reach the site at Ouistreham at which I had already booked a pitch for Friday and I was glad I took the site staff member's advice, even though I had to go back some distance to Le Mans to do so.  It continued to rain most of the way to Caen and several minor roads leaving the A28 and A88 had notices at the Junction - "Barré, Inondée".

It took a lot longer than usual to set up the van when I reached the Bella Riva campsite at Ouistreham but eventually the rain stopped and I finished doing so.

Its now windy but sunny and all is over except for the broken table leg and that I'm very tired.

Altogether an interesting experience but not so traumatic as arriving at Richards Bay in a Violent Storm (See Grandpa's Voyages blog).



Friday, 25 May 2018

CENTRAL LOIRE VALLEY

SULLY SUR LOIRE

May 2018


To orientate myself and others I have prepared this map of my expedition that I'll also use in later posts - it shows the places at which I stayed and my travel direction.


Early Summer Route - 2018

I decided not to visit Orléans because of the congestion that undoubtedly clogs the city most of the time and certainly on 8 May when there is an annual festival celebrating Joan of Arc's triumph in relieving the English siege in 1428 (the first French victory after their disastrous defeat at Agincourt 13 years earlier).

Instead I cut across country to Sully opposite which is the small town of St Pere-sur-Loire and the campsite “Jardin de Sully”. This was somewhat larger and more pretentious than “La Poterie” but comfortable and very well situated. There was no direct access to the river bank but the water could be seen through trees in the grounds.


Well, its hard to see the river but it was there, through the trees


Here it is with a view of Saint Ythier College on the left bank

The town of Sully developed at this place because it was one of the few at which the river could be forded. This naturally made it strategically important and the site was fortified from early historical times with the oldest remains still in existence dating from 1102.

The castle was seriously damaged by floods in 1363 and the owner at the time appointed Raymond du Temple, designer of the Louvre, to plan and oversee its restoration.      In 1602 it was purchased by Maximilian de Béthune, Henry IV 's Finance Minister and the first Duc de Sully who started a process of expansion and conversion to a palatial residence continued by others in later centuries and culminating in public ownership after the second world war.

Here are some photos taken from different viewpoints.


From the Park


Over the Moat from the Esplanade beside the river


From the Town

The land upriver of Sully is densely cultivated now but was vulnerable to regular springtime floods in years gone by – no doubt enriching the soil with deposits and minerals carried down from the interior.      This transformation was created by a levée on each bank I estimated to be some 25 feet above the water level in May 2018.

There is now a surfaced roadway along the top of the southern Levée running eastwards for about 8km from the Chateau for the use of pedestrians, cyclists and approved but strictly limited “riverains” as the owners of the one guest house and four or five farms beside it are called.


Voie Verte on the top of the Levée

I made an expedition along this part of the “Loire a Velo” route, continuing on a minor road to the small village of Lion-en-Sullias and back along a slightly larger road with very little traffic as this part of my ride was during the traditional French lunch hour when very nearly everyone is occupied with their vittles. I returned to the levée along a single track lane in order to get back to the Chateau without going through the town.

There were several places with pleasing views and spring flowers as the following photos show.


A Bend in the Loire with Dampierre Nuclear Power Station in the Background

Dampierre is one of several such stations along the Loire, sited there to use the river water for condensing exhaust steam from the turbines, and has four 937 MW reactors.      Construction was started in 1974 and electricity first produced six years later. So that reactor has been in operation for 38 of its 40 year design lifetime and will be one of the first in France to be closed.     As in Britain, measures to extend the life are being taken but the cost of eventual de-commissioning and disposal of irradiated materials is the source of much controversy.

France's nationalised electricity supplier – EDF – has made some financial provision for these closures but critics assert the final bill will be much higher than has so far been allowed.       That was one of the reasons EDF's own Finance Director resigned a year or two ago when he thought the company's commitment to finance and build the next generation reactors at Hinkley Point in England would create too much debt for the company and market to bear.


Gorse and Mayflower Bloom together


I was in clover here

I also made a couple of explorations by car whilst staying at the Jardin-de-Sully site but the “Loire a Velo” route to the east ran some distance from the river through rather open agricultural fields that I found less interesting so I didn't attempt that on the bike.


CENTRAL LOIRE VALLEY

AMBOISE AND BEAUGENCY

April 2018



LEAVING MARCILLY

I ended up staying nearly three weeks at Marcilly, mainly because of the van problems.

Initially, the only help the van dealer provided was to say they would ship a new hitch and stabiliser unit to me (at my expense). In due course that arrived bringing with it a manual explaining its design and installation in more detail than I'd ever seen before.

The manual very heavily emphasised the risks of the unit failing to work properly if the tow-ball wasn't fully compatible and
the kit supplied included a new ball meeting the requirements – but it wouldn't fit my car because it was too short to clear the rear bodywork.

The manual also confirmed design and manufacture of the ball should conform to ISO 50 (nominally having a 50mm diameter) and should not be worn to less than 49.61 mm. The Subaru ball supplied with the car when both were new was hard-stamped accordingly and having learned the French for a Vernier Caliper (Pied a Coulisse) I found an electronic one in a hardware store on the Industrial Estate in Dreux. Use of that confirmed the minimum diameter of the Subaru ball was 49.74 mm. So that didn't seem to be the source of the problem.

The site maintenance engineer and I then tried fitting the new hitch on the car's ball without fitting the hitch to the caravan, and compared the position of the colour indicators, allegedly showing whether or not the hitch and ball were properly connected, with the equivalent indications on the original hitch fitted to the caravan. 

There was no visible difference.

I reported these findings to the UK dealer and then had a long telephone conversation with the new workshop manager appointed during the time I was at Marcilly.          He explained the colour indicators were not a fully reliable method of confirming security of the connection and neither was my physical test of trying to lift the rear of the car by heaving upwards on the van's tow-bar though that thinking was on the right lines.           But I might have just been lifting the downward weight of the van, resulting in the rear of the car rising on its springs without moving up enough to actually tension the springs via the tow-bar.

The new manager had now introduced a new briefing instruction to be given by the despatch assistant when customers take delivery of a van emphasising the only foolproof way of checking hitch security is to lift the rear of the car by winding the van up on its jockey wheel.

In the meantime the site maintenance engineer had made a good job of re-wiring the 13-pin electrical plug and using the now recommended method of checking, the van duly followed the car without a problem on a tentative test drive – and has done so on all subsequent journeys.

So, it seems the only real problem was an inadequate briefing when the van was delivered coupled with unreliable visual indicators of connection security.         

I now think the latter was probably more of a problem with the Subaru than the Mercedes, as the initial spring rate is softer to give it more off-road capability.        I hope to get a price refund for the new but unused hitch and stabiliser unit.

POSITION AND GEOGRAPHY OF THE CENTRAL LOIRE VALLEY

The source of the Loire is in the Cévennes (part of the Massif Central) not far from Lyons in the Rhone Valley and over 1,000 km from where it debouches into the Atlantic west of Nantes.

The section from Tours to the river-mouth is roughly one third of this distance passing westwards through the region I visited during my first land tour in 2015.        So this year I decided to go farther upriver and have a look at that part of France now known as “Centre-Val- de-Loire” (a huge region roughly circular with a 400-500 km diameter south of Paris).


Overview Map

Here the land slopes gently east-west and the river passes in a huge semi-circle with a diameter of about 150km centred on a city called Vierzon having Tours at its western end and Nevers in the east.

This is the area famous for its rich History, Chateaux and Vineyards, including such well-known names as Tours, Blois, Orléans and Sancerre.

Whilst fascinated by historical events and the benefits of viniculture I was though as much interested in the prospect of being near water with scope for some some gentle, traffic-free cycling, as I was in traipsing around busy cities and the domestic circumstances of ultra-rich people in the past.

AMBOISE and MOSNES

Having enjoyed Tours Castle and Fonteyvraud Abbey in 2015 I decided to start east of there near the city of Amboise and chose a small campsite at Mosnes village called “La Poterie”. This was delightful and operated by a very friendly couple who always had a cheery word and smile for campers and passing cyclists alike.

Cyclists and campers were often the same because the “Loire a Velo” cycle route passes immediately outside the camp entrance within a few metres of the river itself.     Several expeditionary cyclists carrying all their possessions pitched their bivouac tents at “La Poterie” for an overnight stay.


Looking Upriver from the Camp Entrance


And Looking Downriver

The site was very small, perhaps 40 pitches and a handful of chalets, but had all the necessary facilities – ablutions, washing machine and drier, waste disposal etc.

The site also had WIFI access on each pitch included in the overnight fee, and arranged delivery of “Une Demi-Baguette” and “Un Pain au Chocolat” every morning. Together with French butter and a large cup of “Café au Lait” I prepared myself this made a wonderful breakfast leaving me satisfied until evening dinner.

The nearest supermarket was in Amboise, that has a Chateau, but not one in which I had a particular interest. Otherwise it was a busy regional centre with lots of traffic and too many people.

I did explore by car a few times and went for three or four cycle rides up and down river on the Voie Verte sections of the “Loire-a-Velo” route during which I took these few photos.      


The Loire here is pretty wide


And has many beaches created from sands brought down during springtime floods

The rides were all pretty short though because soon the cycle route had to use multi-purpose roads and riding along with cars whizzing past every so often doesn't have the same appeal.

BEAUGENCY

This is another old city with its own Chateau but I chose to go there because it had a campsite by the river and I hoped to find another Voie Verte section of the cycle route.

But that didn't work out so well because it turned out much of the route here was again on roads used by other traffic.

A travelling fair set up on the river bank on the city side was another deterrent.      The campsite on my side was very open and contiguous with a small golf course in the same grounds with both being fully visible from the fairground.

So I was mildly concerned about van security in these circumstances – I had no evidential reason for this but it would have been so easy for one of the “Travellers” to drive across the bridge and whisk my van away that I decided not to risk leaving it for longer than a quick trip to the supermarket.

My only record of this place is one photo I took because I liked the contrast of the pink blossom against the green background.


Contrasting Colours at Beaugency


Thursday, 12 April 2018

Upper Normandy - Val d'Eure - April 2018

VALLÉ DE L'EURE

NEAR DREUX



BACKGROUND TO THIS VISIT

It is nearly a year ago since I last posted on this site so I need to explain I've not been entirely inactive during that time.

After returning to UK last year from Brittany via Plymouth to visit my friends who live nearby in a beautiful cottage on the Quayside at Noss Mayo I returned the caravan to its storage site near Winchester.

But, I wasn't entirely satisfied I'd made the right choice of van because it did tend to sway rather a lot in high winds and when being overtaken on motorways by fast moving vehicles. So I decided to part-exchange it for another with a very similar internal layout but shorter.

After taking delivery in June I took the new van to Cornwall to spend time again with my son and his family during their annual camping holiday and in the October to December period went again to Southern Portugal whence I returned in late December for Christmas before flying off to Australia on another visit to my daughter and granddaughters in Melbourne.

After returning to UK I then hosted a short visit by my Swedish friend Peter with whom I had sailed along the Venezuelan offshore islands in 2001 (see Grandpa's Voyages) and this mainly featured visits to the Historic Dockyards at Chatham and Portsmouth.

There was nothing about these expeditions in the second half of 2017 and early 2018 that I hadn't written about before so it wasn't until March 2018 that I had time to think about my next activities when I decided to go again to France for the Spring and Early Summer.

This time I resolved to head for new territory and so crossed the channel from Portsmouth to Caen and went to a site pre-booked for the Easter holiday at Marcilly sur Eure between the larger towns of Évreux and Dreux.


MARCILLY SUR EURE

Marcilly is indeed small being one of many historic villages located at frequent intervals (every 3-5 kilometres) along the Eure valley bottom.

The Eure is a tributary of the Seine that rises in Lower Normandy before flowing East and then north for a total of some 230 km. Marcilly is situated about half way along this north-south section.

In this area the river is quite narrow and shallow but fast-flowing and has cut a fairly wide valley (perhaps 2 km), with a flat bottom and sides gently sloping upwards to flat land about 75 m higher than the river itself.


Despite population growth the villages retain their separate identity and the countryside is gently agricultural when away from the larger modern towns such as Dreux and Pacy Sur Eure.

My time here was largely pre-occupied with van problems. Once, last year, and again here, the car and van parted company with one another at slow speed as I tried to move away from the pitch I'd been allocated to go to another site.

On both occasions I felt sure I had carefully checked the coupling between the two but of course the van supplier, maker and chassis builder all denied liability and said I hadn't been sufficiently careful to take all the necessary precautions. The new van was easier to tow but had less galley and locker space than the first and I'd not had this sort of problem with my first purchase (though there had been others) but my priority here was to make repairs and check the safety of continuing to tow.

At time of writing I hope I am nearly at the end of this process and able to move on but am not yet completely sure that is the case.

Despite my concerns at possible crowding on the few sites open at Easter time I was practically the only transient visitor. I consequently developed a friendly relationship with the lady receptionist and site maintenance engineer who helped me investigate and deal with the van problems.

The weather over Easter was quite cold and mainly wet so that didn't provide many opportunities for either van repairs or cycling expeditions. But, 10 days later warmer and dryer weather arrived and I was able to make a first expedition.

There are relatively quiet roads along the bottom of the valley on each side of the river (quieter on the more hilly eastern side) and a disused railway line running between the two has been converted into a well-surfaced walking and cycling path for much of its length. 

Anyway, one sunny day I took time off from van repairs and went for a ride starting at Croth then running back along to Marcilly partly on the rough track beside a lake and partly along the old railway route.


Disused Railway Station and River Eure at Croth



Water from the river has been diverted in a few places to create small lakes (Étangs) that have been stocked with fish to attract anglers who can access them by rough tracks near the path along which it is also possible to cycle even though that can be a rather bone-jarring experience.


The combination of rain followed by higher temperatures had resulted in an abundance of flowers starting to shine through with hawthorn in particular showing masses of blossom. That was particularly significant for me because my wife used to love that so very much, and the birds it attracted.


HAWTHORN ABLAZE


I crossed the river east of Marcilly and followed the D116 up the hill to Sorel where I stopped for a couple of beers in the sun in a practically deserted village square before going on to Ézy sur Eure where I could cross back over the river, buy a baguette and a couple of Pains au Chocolat in a local Boulangerie and thence find my way back along the Voie Verte to Croth – a most enjoyable round trip of about 15 km.

Here are a couple more photos of sights along the way.


A CLASSIC RURAL SCENE


WE CALL THEM PRIMROSES

THE FRENCH CALL THEM PRIMVERTS

THE EU WOULD PROBABLY STANDARDISE THEM AS PRIMYELLOWS OR PRIMJAUNES

BUT THEY ARE BEAUTIFUL WHATEVER THEY ARE CALLED

Sunday, 16 July 2017

BRETAGNE – FINISTERRE

LATE MAY/EARLY JUNE 2017

After leaving La Ferme de Lann Hoedic near Sarzeau I moved on, first to Querrien and then to St-Pol-de-Léon near Roscoff.

QUERRIEN 

I first met Doug, Sarah and their first-born in 2003 when we sailed and anchored in company from Panama to the Galapagos and Marquesa Islands – all as recorded in Grandpa's Voyages.

Being much younger than I they had to limit their time at sea and moved to Yorkshire not far from Sarah's parents.     I once visited them there, probably in 2006,  by which time a second daughter had been born.

Thereafter I lost touch until receiving a Christmas Greeting in 2016 when I learned among other things they now had four children and had bought a rather run down farm in Brittany they had been working hard and successfully to restore to a well-kept state.        It was natural therefore to contact them and arrange a visit in 2017.

I had a wonderful 10 days staying on the farm but didn't do much cycling because I preferred the unaccustomed social benefits of spending time with other people.      I did get out one day for a couple of short laps on the dead-end lane serving their farm and a few other properties but the area was pretty hilly and even the smaller roads had quite a lot of fast cars zooming along them.

Doug and Sarah cultivate their land using traditional methods including crop rotation and leaving fields fallow from time to time, but necessarily use tractors that consume large volumes of diesel. They are dedicated to organic methods eschewing the chemical fertilisers and pesticides some of their neighbours prefer to use to obtain higher yields at the expense of environmental damage.

Here are a couple of photos to illustrate the beautiful result of the enormously hard work that keeps Doug super-fit and allows Sarah to use her veterinary knowledge and skills on the cows, sheep, and hens raised on the farm – not forgetting the bees though I doubt much surgery is performed on them!


Extensive fields



Curious cows with crops and sheep in the fields beyond

Another consequence of adopting this lifestyle is that the entire family is self-supporting in food and generates a surplus of all products that is sold to a now-established customer list.

It was great to be able to share this pastoral life during my visit.

Another interesting expedition came about because the two youngest children belonged to a group that had been practicing song and dance performances in traditional Breton costumes for an annual festival held during my visit at the seaside town of Pont l'Abbé just south of Quimper. 

Teams from other villages and towns all over Brittany take part and parade through the town streets before performing in a large local hall. In fact there were so many entrants there were two halls in use for most of the afternoon.


The performers assemble


And Parade through the town


SAINT-POL-DE-LÉON

I chose to return to England on the Roscoff -Plymouth route for another social reason.      John, who sailed on Alchemi in South Africa and Panama/Ecuador (Grandpa's Voyages 2007 and 2010), and his wife Pam live near Plymouth and I had arranged to call on them on the way to my home in Kent.












I found a very conveniently located campsite at Saint-Pol-de-Léon just 4 or 5 miles from the Ferry Terminal at Roscoff.     This site is perched quite high on a cliff at the edge of the Bay of Morlaix with splendid views across the water and overlooking the small Ilot Sainte Anne and its causeway.


Ilot Sainte Anne


Looking East over the Bay of Morlaix

The pitches were rather small, and relatively expensive, but it certainly provided a very convenient spot at which to stay for a few days whilst waiting for the ferry . 

 But I have to add that though there is a formally designated cycle path from Roscoff to the interior I didn't fancy using it because there was far too much traffic for my type of bike riding to be enjoyable (but the cycle path is used by many cross-channel cycle tourists arriving or leaving with their bikes on the ferry).